Angora Care
Fiber
Grooming - Angoras do require grooming whether the are a shedding variety or require shearing. In between molts the fiber on the rabbit should be blown out about every two weeks depending on the consistency of the wool. A low horsepower blower made for dog grooming works very well. The blowing of the coat removes the dander, helps keep the skin and follicles healthy, and prevents the formation of matts. In addition to blowing out the fiber, a greyhound comb can be used to pull out the tangles that form behind the ears, in the armpits, and on the dense region of the rump above the tail. These areas should be groomed regularly to prevent matting and the loss of usable fiber. Toenails should be trimmed at least every time the animal is sheared or plucked and more often if possible. The nails will be less likely to be broken off if they are trimmed often.
Shearing - Angoras should be plucked or sheared every 90 days or so. German Angoras are judged on their wool production over a 90 day period so it is important to keep track of the timing though shedding breeds may go longer or shorter during their natural molting period. Any fiber that is clean and with a staple length over 2.5" is considered the prime fiber and is the most desired for spinning. This fiber generally comes from the back and sides of the rabbit. Shorter fiber that is clean is considered the seconds and can be used to felting. Every rabbit is different. Some of mine prefer their bellies shaved first but others like to start with the back. Some like to lay in my lap, some prefer the grooming table. They will always be a little cranky if it is hot out. I use the Oster A5 clippers with a #40 blade. I use the slower speed for everything except the rounded hind end where the fiber is generally denser. The higher speed in this are tends to make the shearing go faster and stress the rabbit less. Some breeders use scissors to shear their rabbits, I prefer the clippers even for my shedding rabbits because it is faster and I am less stressed about hurting the animal. There are some good demos on Spun Bun's website.
To shear or to pluck - I have sheared and plucked French and Satin Angoras. This is a common thread and question that I hear from new angora owners. If you have a German remember that they do not shed and must be sheared (also if you have an English from Betty Chu's lines they could potentially not shed). With the French Angoras I really prescribe to the belief that it is personal preference all the way. Plucking takes more time and hurts your hand after a while and you do get a little more fiber when you shear to the skin. The fiber grows back pretty much the same every time either way so there really isn't much of a difference. Satin Angoras are another story... If you shave a Satin the fiber will grow back patchy and uneven (if you are not expecting this you way want to cull but wait it out). I have had shaved rabbits that took as long as six months to grow back a decent coat after shearing. Although plucking takes longer, my personal belief is that Satins should never be sheared and if they are never to the skin.
Shearing - Angoras should be plucked or sheared every 90 days or so. German Angoras are judged on their wool production over a 90 day period so it is important to keep track of the timing though shedding breeds may go longer or shorter during their natural molting period. Any fiber that is clean and with a staple length over 2.5" is considered the prime fiber and is the most desired for spinning. This fiber generally comes from the back and sides of the rabbit. Shorter fiber that is clean is considered the seconds and can be used to felting. Every rabbit is different. Some of mine prefer their bellies shaved first but others like to start with the back. Some like to lay in my lap, some prefer the grooming table. They will always be a little cranky if it is hot out. I use the Oster A5 clippers with a #40 blade. I use the slower speed for everything except the rounded hind end where the fiber is generally denser. The higher speed in this are tends to make the shearing go faster and stress the rabbit less. Some breeders use scissors to shear their rabbits, I prefer the clippers even for my shedding rabbits because it is faster and I am less stressed about hurting the animal. There are some good demos on Spun Bun's website.
To shear or to pluck - I have sheared and plucked French and Satin Angoras. This is a common thread and question that I hear from new angora owners. If you have a German remember that they do not shed and must be sheared (also if you have an English from Betty Chu's lines they could potentially not shed). With the French Angoras I really prescribe to the belief that it is personal preference all the way. Plucking takes more time and hurts your hand after a while and you do get a little more fiber when you shear to the skin. The fiber grows back pretty much the same every time either way so there really isn't much of a difference. Satin Angoras are another story... If you shave a Satin the fiber will grow back patchy and uneven (if you are not expecting this you way want to cull but wait it out). I have had shaved rabbits that took as long as six months to grow back a decent coat after shearing. Although plucking takes longer, my personal belief is that Satins should never be sheared and if they are never to the skin.
Housing
Holes - (cages) - the recommended cage size for German Angoras is 3x2x2. Smaller angoras can handle smaller cages but all animals should be allowed to roam in larger spaces as much as possible to avoid muscle degeneration. Angoras should have 1/2"x1" or smaller mesh floors to avoid urine and feces from contaminating the fiber. The bottoms of their feet are quite furry so they will not be hurt but they do appreciate having a non-mesh surface like wood or a hay mat to rest on. There are many different instructions available online on how to build your own cages out of wire, lumber, and even pallets. Just remember with the flooring that side of the wire that the rabbit's feet are on is the side with the smallest spacing.
Rabbits are also very curious and should have enrichment cycled through their homes such as toys, fruit tree trimmings, various raw foods, etc.
Barns - Rabbits are prey animals so no matter how you build your barn, as individual hutches, or a single building, make sure that no predators can gain access to the cages. Barns should shield the rabbits from rain and extreme weather but maintain good ventilation and access to natural lighting without putting the animals in direct sunlight without reprieve.
There are very good and detailed instructions in the new Storey's Guide to Rabbit Raising. It is not necessary to heat the barn during winter as angora fiber is very warm, however, freshly sheared rabbits may need a kind of jacket if the weather is very cold until their new coat begins to grow in. It is however, necessary to keep the barn cool during summer. Rabbits are obligate nasal breathers and overheat very easily. Fans and shade in the barn a minimum requirement.
Below: our barn with double rows of hanging cages, grooming table in the front, and collection/runoff trays below the cages that drain into bins behind the barn
Rabbits are also very curious and should have enrichment cycled through their homes such as toys, fruit tree trimmings, various raw foods, etc.
Barns - Rabbits are prey animals so no matter how you build your barn, as individual hutches, or a single building, make sure that no predators can gain access to the cages. Barns should shield the rabbits from rain and extreme weather but maintain good ventilation and access to natural lighting without putting the animals in direct sunlight without reprieve.
There are very good and detailed instructions in the new Storey's Guide to Rabbit Raising. It is not necessary to heat the barn during winter as angora fiber is very warm, however, freshly sheared rabbits may need a kind of jacket if the weather is very cold until their new coat begins to grow in. It is however, necessary to keep the barn cool during summer. Rabbits are obligate nasal breathers and overheat very easily. Fans and shade in the barn a minimum requirement.
Below: our barn with double rows of hanging cages, grooming table in the front, and collection/runoff trays below the cages that drain into bins behind the barn
Drop Nest Boxes
- while most angora breeds can handle a regular removable nest box, German Angoras can be a little more particular. Many first or second time mothers will have their kits on the wire without entering your box. We found, like many other German breeders, that the Germans instantly take to drop nest boxes built into the bottom of the cage floor out of the same wire. In the winter, you can insulate the box with a cardboard box or make a wood siding insert. We also put foot rest pads on the bottom of the box to keep kits from falling through but allow urine to pass. Foot Rests - foot resting pads and mats are absolutely essential to proper angora care. Angoras are large rabbits and relatively fine boned which increases their risk for sore hock. Sore hock can be fatal if it is colonized by a secondary infection. We use one mat for Satins and two mats for Germans unless the rabbit has had sore hock before, then we add additional mats. |
Feed
Primary - Angoras should have a constant supply of grass hay as their diets require large amounts of fiber to push hair through their gut. Water should also never run dry. Auto watering systems can be a real lifesaver. Daily pellet feeds (of which there are many types) should be monitored and amounts restricted. My German's eat about 1-1.5 cups a day and my Satins eat about 3/4-1 cup per day. It is important no to let rabbits get overweight and they gain fat internally on their organs which can cause difficulty reproducing. Although there are many kinds of rabbit pellets, due to the high fiber productivity of Angoras, I always suggest finding a pellet that has lower protein and more omegas and oils. Sunflower oil and seeds can be beneficial to fiber production and fecundity though should be fed sparingly as they are very high energy. An in depth study in angora nutrition can be found in the PDF below.
Supplements - I have heard several breeders swear by Dr Cheeke's YQ+ to reduce urine smell and prevent wool block. If you can get it, it is a great supplement. If not, the study below suggests reserving one day a week for a hay only diet. Rabbits love treats. They can eat all kinds of leafy greens and weeds but only in moderation as they are not on live green diets normally. Make sure you don't feed pines, citrus, or members of the allium family like onions. The key to ruminant animals is slow, gradual changes. Raspberry, blackberry, and dandelion leaves are all nice treats. The trimmings of fruit tree limbs can also be very beneficial. Rabbits strip the bark off tender tree limbs in the winter and their teeth are continually growing so chewing on the wood below is important to keeping those teeth from overgrowing and hurting their jaws.
- our recipe at a 4:1 ratio pellets to supplement:
1/2 whole rolled oats
1/6 black sunflower seeds with shell
1/6 wheat
1/6 barley
Fodder - fodder is barley, oats, or wheat sprouted for up to 8 days and fed as an entire grass matt. Typically you want to feed before the end of day 6 because the matt becomes bitter as the nutrients in the seed are used to produce the sprout. Fodder is a complete feed and has been shown to increase fecundity (number of offspring) and milk production in rabbits and ruminants. We use fodder as a feed supplement making up about half our total daily feed during the summer. This year we home to make a year round production system. Last year we used wheat and now we are using barley. The rabbits seem to enjoy both as long as we put it out before it gets bitter.
Feeding: 3%-5% of rabbit's weight in fodder per day for complete diet - plus hay
Supplements - I have heard several breeders swear by Dr Cheeke's YQ+ to reduce urine smell and prevent wool block. If you can get it, it is a great supplement. If not, the study below suggests reserving one day a week for a hay only diet. Rabbits love treats. They can eat all kinds of leafy greens and weeds but only in moderation as they are not on live green diets normally. Make sure you don't feed pines, citrus, or members of the allium family like onions. The key to ruminant animals is slow, gradual changes. Raspberry, blackberry, and dandelion leaves are all nice treats. The trimmings of fruit tree limbs can also be very beneficial. Rabbits strip the bark off tender tree limbs in the winter and their teeth are continually growing so chewing on the wood below is important to keeping those teeth from overgrowing and hurting their jaws.
- our recipe at a 4:1 ratio pellets to supplement:
1/2 whole rolled oats
1/6 black sunflower seeds with shell
1/6 wheat
1/6 barley
Fodder - fodder is barley, oats, or wheat sprouted for up to 8 days and fed as an entire grass matt. Typically you want to feed before the end of day 6 because the matt becomes bitter as the nutrients in the seed are used to produce the sprout. Fodder is a complete feed and has been shown to increase fecundity (number of offspring) and milk production in rabbits and ruminants. We use fodder as a feed supplement making up about half our total daily feed during the summer. This year we home to make a year round production system. Last year we used wheat and now we are using barley. The rabbits seem to enjoy both as long as we put it out before it gets bitter.
Feeding: 3%-5% of rabbit's weight in fodder per day for complete diet - plus hay
an in depth look at angora nutrition:
Links to Other Resources
American Rabbit Breeders Association
International Association of German Angora Rabbit Breeders
The Joy of Hand Spinning
Medicinal Herbs for Rabbits
DIY Rabbit Hutch from Wooden Pallets
FREE pedigree program (until 100 entries then only $14)
International Association of German Angora Rabbit Breeders
The Joy of Hand Spinning
Medicinal Herbs for Rabbits
DIY Rabbit Hutch from Wooden Pallets
FREE pedigree program (until 100 entries then only $14)